In 2015 the fashion industry consumed 79 billion cubic
meters of water, emitted 1,715 million tons of CO2, and produced 92 million
tons of waste. by 2030 the global population is expected to reach 8.5 billion
people. In order for sustainability to become part of business operations, the
practice must improve a company’s efficiencies and provide some sort of
monetary incentive.
Industry Analysis
In a report created through the collaboration of the
Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and the Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), we find this
necessary assessment of the industry. In 2016 the apparel and footwear market
generated over 1.8 billion dollars in revenue and employed over 60 million
people. The overuse of resources like water and energy will result in rising
prices as the goods become more scarce. This coupled with rising labor costs
could result in an earnings before interest and taxes (EBIT) margin decline of
3 percent if brands do not adapt and change their practices. Overall, bad for
the planet and bad for business.
Pulse Score. is developed from data and information from two main
resources. The first is the Higg Index, a “self-assessment tool” developed by
the Sustainable Apparel Coalition that large brands use to measure the
environmental and social impacts of their supply chains. BCG and GFA took this
data and combined it with a survey of industry executives—the Pulse Survey—and
interviews with experts to validate their conclusions and processes.
Research found that sustainability performance was
generally linked to company size rather than price positioning. In general, the
largest brands along with some niche sustainability-focused smaller players are
doing very well in terms of their impact. Speaking in geographic terms, the
report found that European brands scored higher on environmental dimensions.
Conversely, US brands achieved higher scores in dimensions related to social
and labor practices.
The report looked at eight major areas of impact
across both environmental and societal issues. The environmental impact areas
included water, energy, waste, and chemicals. The societal impact areas were
labor practices, health and safety, community engagement, and unethical
practices.
One particularly interesting finding is that fashion
brands were much more likely to score higher in areas like health and safety
and chemical usage. The higher scores in chemical impact are due to regulation.
When looking at the design and development phase,
fashion brands must overcome two challenges. The first is that many of these
fashion brands lack awareness of the social and environmental impact of their
products. The second is brands tend to use the design phase as an opportunity
to cut costs.
The next step of the process is the raw materials
stage. This stage is one of the most important stages of the process because of
the dramatic effect it has on the potential recyclability of products. Some of
the worst and most commonly used materials in the fashion industry are leather
and natural fibers like cotton, wool, and silk. While the raw materials stage
has the second lowest score along the value chain, a terrible 17, there is a
serious gap between the top and bottom performers.
Following the raw materials stage is the processing
stage, which includes all actions taken to prepare the fabrics for use, such as
dyeing, weaving, and spinning. Overall, this stage scored the second highest
Pulse Score for the industry with a 38. However, there was a tremendous amount
of variation between brands with scores ranging from 80 to 0.
After processing we move on to the manufacturing stage
where labor, health, and safety are the primary concerns. sports apparel with a
very impressive Pulse Score of 76.
From manufacturing we move to the transportation stage
of the process, which includes both packaging and distribution. Transportation
achieves the highest Pulse Score of 41.
The retail stage comes after transportation and has a
Pulse Score of 28.
As we move past the retail stage, we get into the
final two stages—consumer use and end of use. The consumer use stage includes
how a consumer handles, repairs, and washes their garments and footwear. The
industry scores low on consumer use with a 23, The final stage of the process
is end of use, where the life cycle of a product comes to an end. When a
consumer has finished with a product, it can be passed on to a new consumer,
upcycled, downcycled, full recycled or disposed of as waste. end of use stage
receiving the lowest score across all the stages with just a 9 for the
industry.
Just for a quick recap, the stages of a product life
cycle were as follows: design and development, raw materials, processing,
manufacturing, transportation, retail, consumer use, and end of use.
Some of the key trends discussed in the study are the
growth of the circular economy, increased demand for Corporate Social
Responsibility (CSR) practices, increased consumer awareness, the birth of the
sharing economy, and technological innovation.
The idea of a circular economy is about focusing on
how we can take products and materials already in existence and use them to
create products of greater value. This trend separates economic growth and the
use of finite resources. A circular economy consists of both upcycling and
recycling.
Upcycling is taking resources that would normally be discarded
and using them to create something of greater value.
Recycling, as you probably know, is converting materials from
old products into new ones.
Another driver in the sustainable fashion movement is
the increased prevalence of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) statements by
brands. joining the World Fair Trade Organization. Locally sourced products try
to minimize the distance between where a product is produced and where it is
consumed.
strongest drivers of the sustainable fashion push, is
increased consumer awareness. Research shows that younger generations value
experiences (like a trip to a foreign country or seeing their favorite band
live) more than previous generations. This increasing value placed on
experience results in younger consumers spending less on material things—like
clothing.
The sharing economy is centered on the idea of
collaborative consumption. This new way of consuming products is best described
as “the expansion and reinvention of exchanging, swapping, bartering, sharing,
loaning, and donating practices, usually between people not previously
connected.” The growth of the sharing economy can be seen in the growth of the
apparel rental industry as companies like Rent the Runway continue to see great
success.
A final driver in the sustainable fashion movement is
technological innovation.
When we look at consumption in 2014 as compared to
2000, we see that the average consumer purchased 60 percent more clothing but
kept each garment for half as long. It takes 700 gallons of water to make one
cotton t-shirt. This is enough water for one person to drink for 2.5 years. In
looking at CO2 emissions from the 2018 Climate Report, you can see that fashion
is the fourth worst polluting industry when using this particular metric.
Celebrities today yield more power to influence people
than ever before. The fast fashion model is a system where retailers rush to
recreate the latest trends seen on the runways at the cheapest possible cost so
they can mass produce them and sell them to eager consumers looking to keep up
with the newest trends for the season.
The term slow fashion movement was first coined by
Kate Fletcher, a professor at the Sustainable Fashion Centre. This is a
movement of consumers, designers, retailers, and manufacturers who are all
making the commitment to a more sustainable fashion industry. Rather than
spending money on cheap clothes each season, instead spend that money on
clothing that can last for years.
The slow fashion movement is not meant to just be the
opposite of fast fashion. This movement is about the industry making more
conscientious decisions along all dimensions of the supply chain. researchers
from the Master’s Programme in Strategic Leadership towards Sustainability in
Sweden have identified “sustainable values” that can be used to guide supply
chain decisions.
The first value is seeing the bigger picture. Another
value is slowing down consumption. Additionally, the researchers listed respect
for people as a must-have value for the slow fashion movement. One trend that
is disrupting the fashion industry is the rapid growth of apparel rental. The
apparel rental model allows consumers to rent specific pieces for a set fee or
pay a monthly subscription for access to a selection of garments each month.
millennial consumers on average place a greater value on experience as opposed
to material possessions.
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